停止：看在“创意”的面子上
I like this simple order that is seen on Tokyo street corners. It simply says, "stop" to all of us who are rushing to cross the street.
Former New Yorkers like me are constantly crossing against the traffic lights in our rush to get somewhere but when I work in Tokyo, this simple sign is a reminder to follow the customs and rules of this society. It is a simple request to honor the ways of local culture.
Tokyo's business and creativity is battered by the global crisis, but the streets themselves may disguise the pain that has been afflicted upon the middle-class. After all, it looks like everyone is still shopping. This is a culture that hides its problems in ingenious ways.
What is equivalent to what in America is called the "New Normal" in Japan?
Young Japanese consumers have turned their attention to local brands, not because of price but for the uniqueness that they offer.
Designers from the high-end and manufacturers known more for value are entering arranged marriages outside of their social standing.
Comme de Garcon's highly successful collaboration with H&M created new awareness for the retailer because Rei Kawakubo is not your "normal" glamour brand designer.
This past week's announcement of Jil Sander's new partnership with Uniqlo had both the designer and Tadashi Yanai beaming.
"I bet you are surprised to see me here." said Jil Sander.
Well, yes...and no.
The new world order means that collaborations are the new order where unlikely marriages will equal survival or growth. Perhaps, in the land where double branding has such a rich commercial history, Japan will show us how this strategy can offer more than an occasional exclusive product or PR stunt. What is interesting about the Jil Sander and Uniqlo partnership is that both pride themselves on quality within their respective price category. Some of the early newsmaking collaborations often lacked in quality and a contemporary expression of " value " which will be important in today's culture of New Normal.
"Mass" no longer means less in quality or originality.
我很喜欢这个在东京街道上到处可见的命令， 非常简单又直接地告诉我们不要急着过马路。像我这个以前住过纽约的人，常常不遵守交通规则，乱过马路，来到东京，这个“停止”的命令再一次提醒我，应该要遵守东京当地的习俗与规矩，这是一种尊重当地文化的方式。
东京的商业以及创意受到全球经济危机的影响，但是在街上我完全看不到中等阶级遭受经济危机的影响，看起来大家都继续买东西， 日本文化非常懂得如何掩盖他们社会上的问题。
在日本我们是不是能够找到在美国所谓的“新标准”？
年轻的日本人目前对日本当地的厂牌比较喜好，不只是因为价钱好，同时也是因为日本本地厂牌具有独特的品质。高价厂牌设计家以及大众化的厂商在他们的社交场合之外已经开始合作。
Comme de Garcon’s 最近与H&M的合作给服装专卖界带来一个全新的感觉，因为Rei Kawakubo不是一般大众化的厂牌设计家。
两个礼拜前，Jil Sander 宣布她与Uniqlo的最新合作关系，这个消息让Tadashi Yanai 笑脸满面。
“你大概很惊讶看到我吧？”Jil Sander 笑着说。
或许是，或许不是。
在这个新的世界里充满了新标准， 这种新的合作关系里，不见得两个厂牌融合就能够保证厂牌的长寿或是生意的成长。或许在商业历史上我们曾经见过两个厂牌合作成功的例子，日本现在有机会来显示这种新的策略比高级商品专卖的推广方式更有效。。Jil Sander与Uniqlo的合作，最难得的是他们双方都是以品质优先，不管是在高价或是大众化价钱的范围里。有一些比较早期的厂牌合作，他们通常不注重品质，而且缺乏对现代价值观定义的了解，这种价值观在今天文化的新标准里是非常重要的。
“大众化”并不表示品质低，或者是没有独特性。
-John C Jay
